Turf installation is mostly earthwork. Sod comes out, rock goes in, and the grade is set so water leaves the yard. Most failed installs trace to a thin, uncompacted or poorly drained base. The depths below are general vendor installation guidance, not Utah code or an engineering spec, so your installer's measured plan governs.
The Steps
- Site check and layout: mark edges, note slopes, sprinkler lines, trees and where water should go
- Remove existing sod or old turf and excavate
- Treat low spots and install any drainage
- Lay a weed barrier or geotextile where specified
- Spread crushed rock or road base in lifts and compact each with a plate compactor
- Add a thin leveling layer and grade it
- Roll out the turf, cut to the edges and seam it
- Secure the perimeter
- Spread infill and power-brush the pile upright
How Deep Is the Base?
Manufacturer guides commonly describe 2 to 4 inches of compacted crushed rock or road base for ordinary soil, with deeper excavation on clay, and a grade fall of 1 to 2 percent toward a drain point (RealTurf, TigerTurf). Those are vendor figures, some from other countries. Ask any bidder how deep, what material and how it is compacted.
Why Clay and Freeze-Thaw Change the Job
Much of the Wasatch Front valley floor is clay that holds water, swells when wet and heaves when it freezes. A thin base over clay shows up by the second spring as ripples, low spots and open seams. Vendors note that clay sites call for deeper excavation and sometimes perforated drainage beneath the base. See artificial turf in winter for what freeze-thaw does afterward.
Seams, Edges and Infill
Seams are glued or taped and should sit out of traffic lines. The perimeter is anchored with nailer board or spikes so turf does not creep. Infill (sand or other) is brushed in to keep blades standing and add weight. Pet and putting turf use different infills.
Questions to Ask Before You Sign
- How deep is the base, what is it made of, how is it compacted?
- What drainage is included, and where does the water go?
- What is the seam layout, and where do the seams fall?
- How is the edge secured?
- What is the manufacturer's warranty and who honors it?
How Long It Takes
Most residential lawns are a few days on site once scheduled, longer for large areas or base rebuilds. The installer gives a schedule with the written price.
Related Pages
How Wasatch Turf Experts Works
We are a referral service, not a turf installer. Your request goes to one independent local installer serving the Wasatch Front, at no cost to you. See how we vet our pros for the bar that installer has to clear, read about us and why we publish sources, or check the answers to common turf questions. For anything else, contact us.
Installation Questions
How is artificial turf installed?
Excavate, build a compacted crushed-rock base with drainage, lay the turf and seam it, secure the edges and brush in infill.
How long does artificial grass installation take?
Typically a few days for a residential lawn once the job is scheduled. Larger areas and base rebuilds take longer.
How thick should the base be under synthetic grass in Utah?
Vendor guides describe 2 to 4 inches of compacted rock for normal soil and more on clay. Your installer should state the depth in writing.
Can turf be installed over existing grass or old turf?
No. The grass or old turf comes out so the base can be built and compacted. Turf over turf traps water and fails early.
Who does artificial turf installation near me?
We refer homeowners in Salt Lake, Utah, Davis, Weber and Wasatch counties to one vetted local installer who measures and gives a written price.
Sources
Retrieved 2026-10-22. Vendor installation guidance, not code or engineering specifications.
- RealTurf, Material selection and compaction for the base of your artificial turf
- TigerTurf, How to choose the right turf base for soil types. Australian vendor guidance on clay soils
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